Lisbon During the Off Season
Portugal
🇵🇹
Portugal 🇵🇹
The Selina Rooftop Garden
The Selina Rooftop Garden first appeared on my radar during research into becoming a digital nomad about two years ago. Selina is a worldwide co-work/co-live brand. This property struck me as more like a hotel than a hostel, and it had great spaces to work, and located in the central Bairro Alto neighborhood. This would be my first time in Lisbon, and I knew the space would be perfect for my quick solo trip. It has a restaurant, two bars and a cafe, outdoor work space, rooftop, kitchen, traveler resources, and plenty of spaces to work. The Selina properties are usually targeted toward a younger crowd but caters to all types of travelers, especially long term or solo. Suites are available for $85/night during the off season. My suite was large with a giant bathroom and large bed. It had a fun vibe with an art mural behind the bed and plenty of shelves and space. The suite was designed to be comfortable for long-term co-work guests. Though the majority of the guests were younger, I saw business women as well as an older German couple check in. The restaurant had a full bar and friendly staff, one who happened to have a birthday and brought a cake in for everyone there to share.
There was rain during most of my trip but that wasn’t a problem at the Selina Rooftop Garden and Hotel. The rooftop was also a selling point for wanting to stay there. It has an expansive view of the city and beautiful tiled red roofs. Half of the rooftop was covered so even with the rain people were able to enjoy the outside space. It was off season so I had the rooftop mostly to myself. This was a great surprise because, upon booking my reservation, I noticed the rooftop bar would be closed. I arrived to learn that this meant they weren’t serving but that access to the space was still open. This created a semi-private giant outdoor workspace with plants, tables, and art. Younger guests were playing card games and older couples enjoyed a Portuguese wine while I enjoyed the space and view to work away. The rooftop was by far my favorite place to work and I’d love to go back to experience what it is like during the summer under the sunshine.
Fado Concert
My hotel was located down a small street next to a great nail salon and across from a little market, or mercado. Just a 15 minute walk away is the Bifana shop where Anthony Bourdain and Feed Phil had their 2 euro Bifana, a delicious pork sandwich. This was also across from the Fado show where for 20 Euro for 90 minutes of the live music which was designated a UNESCO protected intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. I found out about the show 30 minutes before it started but somehow made it with time to spare! I loved the walkability of Lisbon. The Fado show was close enough to the hotel to walk back the steep streets when I realized I hadn’t tried the famous Lisbon pastry, the Pasteis de Nata.
Pastel de Nata
There are bakeries on every steep street in Lisbon so I decided that was the perfect way to end my night. As if on cue, I passed the Casa do Licor Pastel de Nata. It was actually the giant bottles of chocolate liquor that first caught my eye. Next to the wall of chocolate and wine bottles was a counter of the most beautiful crisp pasteis de nata I’ve seen. Though the most famous Pastel de Nata in Lisbon is the Belem Pastel de Nata, everyone has their preference and a creamy egg tart with a coffee martini is my top choice.
Image source: @casalicorpasteldenata
Tram 28
The famous yellow Tram 28 is over 100 years old and still actively used as public transportation as well as a top sightseeing attraction. I boarded the tram near the sea and took it east towards Alfama. When the tram hit its last stop, everyone was told to get off, so no free round trips. To get back, there was the option to jump on the next Tram. Rather than wait in a line to be crammed into the first car, I headed through the beautiful Alfama district towards one of the later stops to catch my tram ride home. The rain had made the ground slippery but it was difficult not to look up at the colorful ornate tiles on every building. It’s a good idea to wear a pair of shoes with good traction to walk Lisbon’s cobbled and tiled streets no matter the time of year though. The rain started again and I ducked into a little cafe called Josephine’s Bistro & Bar outside Largo do Intendente. I was taken to a cute little table where I ordered a sangria and enjoyed the irony of the picture next to me, “No Rain in Lisbon but Plenty of Tourists Pour In.”
Time Out Market & Green Street
Within walking distance of my hotel was the Time Out Market. Not sure what to order, I did about two laps seeing that many of the vendors offered similar specialities of cod and shrimp. I noticed one vendor offered razor clams on the menu which I regretfully skipped over for another delicious shrimp dish but will go back and find those clams one day. For my final dinner I found a charming street called “Green Street.” This place would be perfect for those looking for cozy family-run cafes tucked into a street covered in colorful flower streamers.
The Lisbon Airport
The Lisbon Airport food court had amazing options like carved prosciutto, delicious breads, and of course pasteis de nata. After a few rainy days in Lisbon, it was a treat to see a rainbow at the Lisbon airport before my flight home. It was a beautiful goodbye and memory of Lisbon. I hope to return again and explore Sintra and Porto!
